Clivia Miniata will surely appeal to true connoisseurs of exotic flowers that attract the eye with their colorful colors and unusual buds. An additional advantage of growing this exotic is its relatively unpretentiousness, so you need to remember only a few basic rules for caring for this plant, which you will learn about in this article.

Botanical description of the plant

Clivia (aka Kaffir lily) is a representative of a small genus of evergreen herbaceous perennials from the Amaryllis family. You can find them in the natural environment of growth on the territory of the western coast of South Africa, and in indoor floriculture they are grown by flower growers from various countries, in particular the Russian Federation. High decorative qualities are possessed not only by the bell-shaped flowers of the plant, but also by the dense leaves of a deep dark green color, so the plant always looks advantageous, even during dormancy.

Important! The leaves of the described plant secrete a toxic substance, therefore, with any manipulations with the flowerpot, it is necessary to protect the hands with gloves and be sure to wash them after care.

Clivia Miniata (cinnabar or orange) is the most popular variety for home growing, for which there is a logical explanation: large, red-yellow inflorescences that “light” the dark green leaves from February to March. One flower stalk can combine about 20 inflorescences, which only adds splendor to the entire plant. The length of the false stem (formed by fleshy long leaves) is 60–70 cm, and an umbrella peduncle with buds is formed from its very center.

Main types

Today, there are many interesting variations of Clivia Miniata, about the features of which every grower should know.

First of all, we are talking about such exotic plants:

1. Clivia White - a flower, up to 70 cm high, with long and dense leaves of dark green color. About 20 bell-shaped inflorescences of a pure white color are formed on the peduncle. The flowering period of the plant is the beginning of spring.
2. Clivia Yellow - A variety with large yellow flowers of the umbrella type. They have a very pleasant aroma and bloom on a long peduncle. Yellow clivia reaches its peak of decorativeness closer to the second half of spring, when all formed buds bloom on it.
3. Clivia Noble - One of the oldest varieties, since this plant was discovered back in 1828. The height of the bush is 30 cm, long dark green leaves are xiphoid, slightly narrowed at the end. The peduncle grows up to 50 cm in length and forms about 60 slightly drooping, tubular inflorescences of bright colors (red or yellow-orange). This variety blooms before the rest - in the second half of winter.
4. Clivia Gardena - A view discovered by Robert Garden, who in 1856 discovered an unusual plant in the city of Quasal (the former province of Natal, South Africa). The natural habitat of the plant is a foothill shady area at an altitude of about 1300 m above sea level. At home, this Kaffir lily grows up to 50 cm in height and forms bright green, xiphoid leaves up to 90 cm long. Flower buds are formed at a high peduncle, and after blooming turn into bell-shaped flowers of red-orange color. The plant blooms mainly in the autumn, but sometimes the flowers bloom with the onset of winter.
5. Clivia the Fair - one of the smallest varieties of this plant, its height does not exceed 28-30 cm. Dark green leaves are of the usual xiphoid shape, with a slightly pointed edge, and on long thick peduncles up to 60 medium inflorescences of tubular shape and orange color are formed. The beginning of flowering of the plant is observed from mid-January and continues until the beginning of the spring period.
6. Clivia Citrina - A view discovered in 1899 and characterized by delicate creamy yellow flowers. With good care, it grows up to 60 cm and pleases not only with a long peduncle with fragrant flowers, but also with long, belt-shaped leaves of a deep green color. The flowering period of the species is from early February to late March.
7. Clivia Stable - A variety discovered in 1943 in South Africa. A distinctive characteristic of the flower is an unusual and high stem, formed from lower dried leaves and having an airy root system. Leaf blades are belt-shaped, dark green in color, smooth to the touch. Inflorescences are drooping, bell-shaped. Medium-sized flowers of red-orange color bloom with the arrival of the first heat or in the summer, in rare cases, flowering is possible in the fall.

House growing conditions

Choosing Clivia Miniata as a houseplant, it is important to know about some of the rules for its cultivation. Consider the basic requirements for the cultivation of an exotic flower.

Lighting and ventilation

Clivia prefers bright, but at the same time diffused lighting, since prolonged exposure to direct sunlight can be detrimental not only to flowers, but also to leaves of decorative culture. Given this feature, it is worth placing a pot with a plant on the east or northwest windowsill.

Did you know? In 1920, a German astronomer Carl Rainmouth discovered a small asteroid with a diameter only 7.87 km. The cosmic body is called "(935) Clivia" - in honor of this houseplant. Total Rainmouth discovered 395 asteroids.

To shade the culture on particularly hot summer days, you can use blinds or mesh tulle, which will also serve as a small obstacle in case of sharp gusts of wind. The plant reacts to cold air currents by shedding ovaries and a deterioration in the overall appearance, therefore, when ventilating a room with a plant, it is important to exclude any drafts.

Temperature and humidity

In summer, the values ​​comfortable for clivia will be + 22 ... + 26 ° C. In the autumn-winter time, it is desirable to lower these indicators to + 12 ... + 16 ° C, which will provide the flower with optimal conditions for the rest period.Humidity for this flower does not matter, therefore, almost any indicators of urban apartments or private estates are quite suitable for the plant.

Home Care

Having properly organized the conditions, it's time to think about the proper care of clivia, taking into account its needs for moisture, fertilizers, pruning and transplantation.

Watering

Clivia Miniata is a drought-tolerant plant, so watering at home should always be dosed, taking into account the state of the upper soil layer. In this case, a good irrigation fluid is boiled and settled water at room temperature. On average, it is necessary to pour it under the root no more than once every 3-4 days - as a rule, it takes so much time for the substrate to dry well. Excessive overmoistening of an exotic plant threatens with browning of the tips of its leaves, rotting of the rhizome and base of the stem part.

Important! If, as a result of a decrease in the number of waterings in clivia, the tips of the leaf plates begin to dry out, you can partially resume hydration, taking care not to flood the plant.

With the beginning of the dormant period (in October-November), the number of irrigations can be reduced even more, and closer to the calendar beginning of winter, it can be completely stopped. Full renewal of the usual irrigation scheme is possible with the appearance of a peduncle no less than 10-15 cm in length. Its formation will also serve as a guide for the planned increase in temperature in the room with clivia. Ignoring these requirements leads to the "solidification" of the buds and the absence of their further growth and development.

Top dressing

Nutrients are needed by Clivia Miniata only during the period of active vegetation, which begins with the advent of spring and continues until the very end of summer. The frequency of top dressing should not exceed 1 time per month, and in the role of nutrients it is desirable to use complex mineral formulations designed to power decorative flowering crops. For example, the Ideal preparation or a mixture of potassium nitrate, urea and superphosphate, taken in equal amounts, will be a good option for such fertilizer.

Potash dressing will be especially useful during the formation of the peduncle, but the use of a large number of nitrogen-containing compounds in this case is better to avoid, otherwise with a large number of lush foliage, bloom will not come. From the beginning of autumn to spring, the Miniatus’s clivia can not be fed.

Pruning

Formative pruning of clivia is not needed, because its leaves already have an attractive appearance. For sanitary purposes, only the removal of yellowed and shriveled leaf plates is performed, as well as cutting off the faded peduncle (with a sharp knife at the very base). True, if the florist wants to collect seeds for further propagation of the plant, it is worth preserving the peduncle until they ripen. To preserve the decorativeness, you can also trim the yellowed tips of the leaves.

Transfer

A clivia transplant is performed in 2 cases:

• when the roots began to crawl out of the drainage holes;
• with partial decay of the rhizome - of course, if the plant can still be saved by the removal of damaged roots.

Planned transplantation of young plants should be performed every year, but adult plants are transplanted less often: about 1 time in 3-4 years. In either case, the pot needs to be changed only at the end of the blooming of Miniatia clivia, having previously prepared a new planting tank and a suitable nutrient substrate (for example, a mixture of sod, peat and humus soil in a ratio of 2: 1: 1). The selected pot should be about 3 cm wider than the previous one so that the plant does not feel too loose and retains flowers longer.

Did you know? In the birthplace of Clivia Miniata, in South Africa, local tribes use its leaves to eliminate fever attacks, accelerate labor activity in women, and even to neutralize snake venom.

If you use too large a capacity, flowering will not occur until the rhizome grows over the entire space.Another mandatory criterion for choosing such a capacity is the presence of drainage holes that provide sufficient air exchange and prevent possible root rotting of the plant due to stagnation of moisture.As for the transplant process itself, it consists of the following sequential actions:

1. Place a layer of 2 cm expanded clay or any other material on the bottom of the new pot to create drainage.
2. Pour the ready-made nutrient mixture for flowering plants or a self-prepared substrate (should reach the middle of the pot).
3. Carefully remove the plant from the previous container, being careful not to break the roots (if this happens, immediately sprinkle the broken place with crushed charcoal).
4. Place clivia in a new pot and slowly cover it with prepared substrate, slightly compacting it.
5. Water the plant and leave it in a shaded and warm enough place, and after a few days transfer it to the usual windowsill.

If a transplant is not necessary, but the nutritional value of the soil in the pot is in doubt, you can replace only 5 cm of the upper layer of the substrate using a new slightly acidic soil. If possible, it will be useful to add 2 tablespoons of slow-acting phosphate fertilizers for every 3 liters of land.

Rest period

The "winter hibernation" of clivia (especially young specimens) should last at least 2 months, starting in mid-autumn. However, the larger and older the plant, the longer the dormant period will be, and in this case, it is worthwhile to stop watering a little in September. Almost the entire winter season, the flower should rest, contribute to what you can, just taking the pot with it to a cooler room with a temperature of at least + 12 ° C.The end of the dormant period will be indicated by the appearance of a peduncle on clivia, after which it is necessary to gradually resume the usual care.

Breeding

When growing exotic Kaffir lily, the optimal methods for its propagation are to separate the children and sow the seeds. True, with regard to the latter option, it will require more time and effort. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Kids

The vegetative method of propagation is always much simpler than the generative one, therefore clivia propagation by separating the shoots is even possible for beginner growers. All that is required is to separate from the specimen that has faded this year the required number of lateral processes on which at least 4 own leaflets have already been formed, and plant them in separate pots of sand with a diameter of about 7 cm.Further care at the time of rooting involves performing the same actions as when growing an adult plant. True, such a culture will need a little more heat, and the humidity level will have to be reduced. A new plant from planted babies of clivia will begin to bloom no earlier than 3-4 years after planting.

Seeds

The seed method of propagating an exotic culture is somewhat more complicated than a vegetative one, especially if you decide to harvest planting material yourself from an existing plant. When growing Miniatia clivia at home, it will have to be pollinated artificially, transferring pollen with a brush. To simplify the task, buying ready-made seeds in a horticultural store will help, after which it remains only to soak them for a day in water, and then sow them in a mixture of peat and perlite, combined in equal proportions. Seeding depth should not exceed 1 cm, and between adjacent seeds it is desirable to maintain a space of 2 cm.

Important! From about the 4th year after the planting of clivia seedlings, Miniat should organize dormant periods (from September to November), reducing the frequency of watering and moving the pots to cooler places.

The filled planting container must be covered with glass or plastic film and left indoors at a temperature of + 20 ... + 25 ° C, moistening and airing the seedlings as necessary. The appearance of the first sprouts can be expected in 1–1.5 months, and as soon as the first leaves form on them, seedlings should be dived into separate pots filled with a mixture of clay soil, humus and leaf soil.In the future, before young plants reach the age of 3 years, they will have to be transplanted annually in larger containers. The "growing up" of the plant is very slow, and in the first year only 2 or 3 leaflets develop. In the second year, their number increases by another 3-4 pairs, and then with each subsequent year 2 more pairs of leaf plates appear on the flower. The clivia planted by children begins to bloom around the 5–6th year after sowing planting material.

Possible growing difficulties

All the difficulties in growing an exotic African flower are due to a violation of the rules of care, as a result of which the plant may suffer from pests or the development of pathogens. In both cases, it is important to know about the possible symptoms of such troubles and how to solve each specific problem.

Disease

Almost all varieties of clivia are characterized by good immunity to the main diseases of indoor flowers, however, violation of the rules of care and possible pest damage worsen the appearance of the plant, contributing to the development of certain ailments.

Important! For any disease of clivia just in case, it’s better to temporarily remove it to the quarantine zone, which will prevent possible problems with other decorative cultures.

The most common of them include:

1. Fungal disease stagonosporosis, characterized by the appearance of red spots on the rhizome of the flower (if you carefully remove clivia from the ground, it is easy to notice diseased roots that differ from healthy ones in brown). With partial damage to the root system, carefully remove the diseased roots and transplant the flower into a smaller pot. If more than half of the rhizome is affected, then it is most reasonable to plant a new plant, and the old will have to be discarded.
2. Red burn - Another ailment of fungal origin, the reasons for the development of which are often excessive waterlogging of the soil and low temperature in a room with a pot. To eliminate the problem, it is necessary to completely remove the affected parts (mainly leaves) to the very base. If signs of the development of the disease appeared on the roots, then some of their parts will have to be cut off. To prevent further spread of the problem, the remaining roots are soaked in fungicidal solutions (for example, the Ordan preparation) and, after thorough drying, they are planted in smaller containers filled with a sand mixture.
3. Root rotprovoked by the activity of pathogens living in the soil. In this case, clivia will have to be transplanted into a new substrate, previously steamed or spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
4. Leaf spotting and drying. Sometimes this problem is mistaken for signs of a specific disease, but most often this phenomenon is associated with direct exposure to sunlight, which leaves burns on the plant. Try moving the pot to another place, or just often cover the window with curtains.

Sometimes Clivia Miniata for some unknown reason ceases to bloom.

There are usually several reasons for this:

• natural changes associated with the wintering period,
• violation of the rules of care during the dormant period (for example, waterlogging of the substrate or overfeeding plants with nutrients),
• excessive amounts of nitrogen-containing fertilizing, which contribute to the growth of green mass, but at the same time reduce the flowering intensity.

Also, do not forget to check the temperature indicators - perhaps the flower is just very hot in the room.

Pests

Meatworms, aphids, and scale insects, which leave small brown spots on leaf blades, which indicate specific places for the absorption of nutrients, are deservedly considered the most common pests of clivia. A sign of the defeat of the plant by mealybugs is the deformation of leaf plates, arrows and flowers of the flowerpot, but the aphid leaves sticky traces on all parts of the plant and many miniature punctures that can be noticed when you carefully examine the plant.Whatever pest you encounter while growing exotic Kaffir lily, in any case, rubbing the leaves with soapy water and further processing of all parts with insecticides (for example, Actellicum at the rate of 15 ml per 1 liter of water) will help get rid of it.

In general, despite the rare possible difficulties, Clivia Miniat can indeed be considered one of the most interesting and exotic plants for growing indoors. Bright flowers and lush green foliage will decorate any interior, regularly attracting the eyes of not only guests, but also the inhabitants of the house.